Kars Travel Guide: Ani, Snowy Winters and Local Cheese
Plan a first trip to Kars: the ruins of Ani, the castle and Russian-era streets, frozen Lake Çıldır, the Eastern Express, local food and when to go.
· 4 min read
Kars, on Turkey's north-eastern plateau, is worth two days: one for the medieval ruins of Ani on the Armenian border, one for the castle, the stone churches and the Russian-era streets of the city. Come in summer for green highlands, or in winter for snow, a frozen Lake Çıldır and the scenic Eastern Express train.
It feels different from anywhere else in Turkey: wide horizons, cool air even in July, grand 19th-century stone buildings, and a food culture built on cheese, honey and goose. Here is how we'd spend a first visit.
Why is Ani the highlight?
Ani was once a great medieval city on the Silk Road, and its churches, walls and mosque now stand alone on a grassy plateau above the Akhurian gorge, which marks the border with Armenia. Walking between the ruins with only the wind for company is one of Turkey's most moving experiences.
The site is roughly 40 km from Kars. The ticket for foreign visitors was €8 on the official price list on 8 October 2026, and it's included in the Museum Pass Türkiye. Allow at least three hours, bring water, a hat and a windproof layer — there's little shade and the plateau can be breezy.
Cathedral of Ani
Historic & Cultural · Kars
The Cathedral of Ani is the largest surviving building on the site, with a vast, elegant interior.
Go to Cathedral of AniChurch of Saint Gregory of Tigran Honents
Religious Sites · Kars
The Church of Tigran Honents keeps some of Ani's best wall paintings.
Go to Church of Saint Gregory of Tigran HonentsChurch of Saint Gregory of Abughamrents
Religious Sites · Kars
The round Church of St Gregory of Abughamrens is a small gem near the walls.
Go to Church of Saint Gregory of AbughamrentsWhat is there to see in Kars itself?
The city centre is compact and walkable. Climb to Kars Castle for the view over the old quarter and the river, then walk down to the 10th-century Church of the Holy Apostles, known locally as the Kümbet Mosque. Around the centre, look out for the stone mansions and public buildings from the Russian period of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, which give Kars its unusual, almost Baltic look.
Castle of Kars
Historic & Cultural · Kars
Kars Castle stands on the hill above the old town; go in the late afternoon for the light.
Go to Castle of KarsKümbet Kilise
Religious Sites · Kars
The Church of the Holy Apostles (Kümbet) is one of the oldest buildings in the city.
Go to Kümbet KiliseKars Museum
Museums · Kars
Kars Museum covers the region's archaeology and ethnography.
Go to Kars MuseumPeynir Müzesi
Museums · Kars
The cheese museum is a fun stop to learn about Kars gravyer and kaşar.
Go to Peynir MüzesiWhat is Kars like in winter?
Kars is one of Turkey's great winter destinations. Snow covers the plateau, Ani turns white, and to the north, in neighbouring Ardahan province, Lake Çıldır freezes over: local fishermen cut holes in the ice and horse-drawn sleighs glide across the lake.
Sarıkamış, in Kars province, is a ski resort known for its powdery snow among pine forests. And the Touristic Eastern Express (Turistik Doğu Ekspresi) runs between Ankara and Kars as a winter season — in 2025–26 it ran from late December to the start of March — with dates announced by TCDD each autumn. Dress for real cold: thermal layers, a warm hat, gloves and boots with good grip.
Sarıkamış-Allahuekber Dağları Millî Parkı
Nature & Adventure · Selim
The Allahuekber Mountains National Park near Sarıkamış protects forests and the memorial landscape of 1914–15.
Go to Sarıkamış-Allahuekber Dağları Millî ParkıAnd in summer?
From June to September the plateau turns green, wildflowers cover the meadows and days are warm while nights stay cool. It's the most comfortable time for long walks at Ani, birdwatching around Lake Kuyucuk, and drives through the villages. Bring a jacket even in July.
Lake Kuyucuk
Nature & Adventure · Arpaçay
Lake Kuyucuk is a small wetland famous among birdwatchers, especially during migration.
Go to Lake KuyucukWhat should I eat in Kars?
Cheese and honey make great gifts to take home; shops will vacuum-pack cheese for travel.
- Kars gravyer and kaşar cheeses — taste before you buy at the cheese shops in the centre.
- Kars honey, from the flower-rich highland meadows.
- Roast goose (kaz), a winter speciality often served with bulgur pilaf.
- Hearty soups and dumplings that suit the climate.
How do I get to Kars?
- By air: Kars Harakani Airport (KSY) has flights from Istanbul and Ankara; it's a short ride to the centre.
- By train: the Touristic Eastern Express from Ankara is a journey in itself, popular in winter — book as soon as tickets open.
- By bus: intercity buses connect Kars with Erzurum and the rest of Turkey.
- Getting to Ani: by taxi, a local minibus tour or a rental car; ask your hotel to arrange a return trip with waiting time.
A two-day plan
- Day 1 morning: Ani (go early for the light and fewer people).
- Day 1 afternoon: back to town for the Church of the Holy Apostles and the old streets; dinner with goose in winter.
- Day 2 morning: Kars Castle and the museum.
- Day 2 afternoon: Lake Çıldır in winter, or Lake Kuyucuk and the villages in summer.
- Extra day: Sarıkamış for skiing or forest walks.
Kars rewards travellers who go a little further. Pack layers, taste the cheese, and give Ani the time it deserves — and check in on TripNVB at the places you visit, so the next traveller knows what's waiting.
Sources
This article was written by the TripNVB team from our own data: places, locations and facts come from our records. Check opening hours and prices on each place's page before you go.
The full Kars guide →
